Casa Oaxaca

Mexico’s contribution to world cuisine is sophisticated, complex and tasty. The preparation and blending of chilies, spices and herbs when combined with a variety of vegetables and meats delivers dishes that are unique and delicious. While relatively few people in the USA have an opportunity to taste the real authentic Mexican cuisine it can be found here in the Washington DC at Casa Oaxaca.

Mole is the national dish of Mexico is familiar to American diners as a chocolate-chilly sauce but bears no resemblance to those cooked and served in homes and restaurants across Mexico. When the Mole is prepared with skill, love and care it resembles a symphony of flavors that come from the complexity of fresh and dried chilies such as poblano, mulato, chilhuacles, pasilla and chipotle; combinations of chocolate, pumpkin seeds, sesame, almonds, pecans and peanuts and herbs such as oregano, epazote, cilantro, and parsley which make each dish as exciting as the next. Wild mushrooms from central Mexico – chantrelle, porcini, and coral type mushrooms are all used. Pumpkin and zucchini flowers are also common ingredients in Mexican cooking.

Thirteen couples dined at Casa Oaxaca an authentic upscale Mexican restaurant located close to Adams Morgan on a miserably rainy night. The dinner was a special one prepared for the staff and WBFN members by the creative chef, Alfio. We were given a choice of four antojitas (appetizers), six Platos fuertos (main dishes) including four mole choices, and four postres (desserts).

We chose from the menu of four appetizers. Oaxacan cheese flambéed with chorizo (Queso Fundido con Chorizo) received high marks; Red snapper cevice with pineapple (Cevice de Huachinango con pina) – a blend of fresh fish cured with lime juice and garnished with strings of cucumber – was subtle in flavor and delicious; Huitlacoche ravioli in a squash blossom with poblano sauce – the sauce was superb and the pasta soft . Huitlacoche is a fungus that grows on corn and considered a delicacy in Mexico, akin to the truffle in Europe; and Chicken and mole tamale wrapped in banana leaves (Tamal Oaxaqueno) – an excellent sauce complemented this appetizer.

The main dishes offered a wide range of choice. Fillete Oaxaqueno (filet mignon served over chipotle sauce and topped with flambéed Oaxacan cheese). This dish is from chef Alfio’s home state with a rendition sauce that included dried chipotle chilis, garlic, tomatillos, cumin, onion and pepper. Some of the group felt that the meat portion was a bit small and dry. Tuna en mole Negro (seared Ahi Tuna with Black Mole) offered a perfectly prepared tuna in a sauce that combined relatto and pasilla, chillies and herbs. Mole Coloradito (light red mole served over beef – a typical mole without chocolate) was popular with the group. The meat was moist and tender and the sauce excellent. Mole Poblano (Mole poblano served over chicken breast). While the sauce was another delicious preparation some in the group found the chicken a bit dry and were not particularly fond of the sauce. De Vegetales (sautéed squash blossom flower, zucchini, fresh corn, and fresh Oaxacan cheese). This dish got high marks for taste and presentation.

Four desserts were on offer and the group tried all. Flan de Calabaze (Pumpkin flan) was a group favorite and considered airy, light and delicious. Flan Traditional (Mexican vanilla custard) was not so well reviewed. It was described as heavy and lacking distinctive flavor. Pastel de Tres Leches( moist sponge cake infused with coconut rum) proved to be delicious. Churros con Cajeta (deep fried pastries dusted with cinnamon sugar) were very good and the group noted that they were crisp and not greasy.

Service was excellent and accommodating and the staff was willing to deal with our questions and needs. Parking, so close to Adams Morgan, is difficult and a number in our party parked further away and either walked or took a taxi. There was some discussion re the cost of the special meal that included a glass of Sangria or a Margarita. While the overall rating was high the $55 per person (including tax and tip) was considered too expensive by some in our party.

We went back to Casa Oaxaca some weeks later to sample a dinner prepared by Chef Alfio. This can only be described as an outstanding culinary experience.

Alfio is a young “traveling chef”, as he labels himself, who has studied in Geneva and Paris and has fifteen years experience in five star hotel kitchens and has opened restaurants in Mexico, Paris and Washington DC. He serves as a restaurant consultant for establishments in the area and in Baltimore, Maryland.

The dinner he prepared included Sopes – tiny hand-made tortilla with black beans and grated Oaxacan cheese served as an appetizer. This was followed by a sampler of seven mole sauces – Oaxaca, Negro, Rojo, Verde, Amarillo, Blanco, and Poblano which we tasted using strips of freshly made tortillas. Each of the moles in the sampler had its own distinctive falvor. Alfio noted that these traditional moles were developed in “pre Hispanic” Mexico and it is his ambition to preserve the traditional recipes and techniques. He also noted that modernization has taken place in terms of the development of Mexican cuisine and that there are fine dishes to be found that fuse the old and the new.

Pozole, a traditional Mexican soup that contains hominy kernels was delicate and excellent. Mole con Pollo con tres salsas - chicken breast with three moles was followed by Tuna with mole, Enchiladas de mole, Castillas de Pureco en Salsa Verde (pork ribs in a green mole). We had a sample of Platinitos Rellenos (a tasty plantain dish) and then, for dessert, Pastel de Tres Leches – a delicious soft and succulent cake made at the restaurant and which will become a signature dessert in future. Finally we had a hot chocolate drink – Chocolate de Oaxaca.

This meal was a true “five star” experience and we feel sure that Casa Oaxaca will be recognized as a top class dining venue in Washington DC.

 

Vim Maguire